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 Wooden Kitchen worktops corner joints must be butted or made with full
equal mitres in order to accommodate cross-grain movement of the timber.
NEVER used a haunched mitre to join kitchen worktops.
Each joint should be held and aligned with at least 3 worktops bolts and 4, size 20 biscuits (not dowels).
 Wooden Kitchen worktops Mitre joints
Make mitre joints in wooden kitchen worktops with an equal angle. Reinforce
the underside of the joint with a plywood or metal plate.
Screw fix the plate through slots (aligned across the woodgrain) at 12mm holes with pennywashers - to accommodate crossgrain movement of the worktops timber.
Note: The endgrain on wooden kitchen worktops joints and the holes for
the bolts must all be edge-sealed before assembly and silicone sealed
during assembly.
Tap plinths
Joints between tap plinths and adjacent tops must be made with worktops bolts.
Seal the endgrain at both sides of the joint with Endgrain sealer.
Seal the joint with low modulus silicone sealer when the joints are finally to be tightened up.
End caps
Cut and fit end caps on wooden kitchen worktops next to Agas, boilers
and other hot appliances that run continuously or for ling periods of
time. They are also necessary on tops adjacent to dropped hobs.
The caps reduce drying of the main timber part.
Attach securely with biscuits and loose tongues and waterproof woodglue, eg Cascamite.
Appliances
Leave 15mm gaps between the ends of tops and feestanding appliances, boilers, cookers etc.
In any case follow the appliance manufacturers' installation instructions.
Scribing and fitting
Any holes, notches or slots to clear pipes and other intrusions from the building should be at least 5mm larger all round than the intrusion.
Take care to avoid any contact between timber and intrusion after installation.
The timber edges must be smoothed and sealed with edge sealer.
 Sink and appliance cutouts
Take great care when installing sinks into wooden kitchen worktops, due to the
possibility of water penetration into the joints and timber if incorrect
procedures and materials are used.
When positioning and making a cutout for a hob always follow the manufacturer's instructions for sizes, safety clearances, etc.
Observe minimum distances:
- from cutout to end of joint = 100mm min. except Belfast type sinks.
- from Belfast type cutout to end of top = 300mm min.
- from front or back edges = 50mm
- between adjacent cutouts = 100mm min. and this narrow strip must be supported beneath with a rail.
Cutouts for lay-on sinks and hobs must have a clearance of 3mm per side, 6mm overall, for cross grain timber movement.
Do not make square corners unless unavoidable, eg. for lay-on hobs. Undermounted sinks should have an overhand of 7.5 - 10 mm all round.
 For accuracy, quality and safety, cutouts for undermounted sinks should be benchcut using jigs and a router, never a jig saw.
Prepare the wooden kitchen worktops to take the sink fixing clamps at
the same time as the undermounted cutout is being made.
The edges of all concealed cutouts for lay-on sinks and appliances and tap holes must be moved and thoroughly sealed with Edge Seal.
This will prevent damage to the timber from condensation and any leakage.
Please tell the plumber of the requirement to seal all concealed edges against moisture. |
